Refurbished Saeco Spidem Villa Espresso Machine - Black

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There are several possible causes of this problem. Please follow the instructions below to solve it.

Solution 1

The most common solution to this problem is to ensure that the inner piece of the frothing wand is properly in place. To do this, follow these instructions:

Click here for a diagram
Note: Your wand may look slightly different than the wand pictured in the diagram, but the same instructions apply.

1) Remove the black plastic outer sleeve of the Frothing Wand (some models have a metal outer sleeve). If done correctly, the “sleeve” has been removed, but the inner wand with red or black washer, is still connected to the machine.
2) The part of the sleeve assembly that you have removed is comprised of 2 pieces, the frothing sleeve and the center piece. The center piece can be seen if you look into the top of the wand.
3) Using a pencil (eraser end), or similar shaped object, push down on the center piece until an audible “click” is heard. The “click” means that the centerpiece is back into the proper position. When in the proper position, the center piece visibly sticks out the bottom of the sleeve about ¼-inch. It looks like a bird beak.
4) Now put the sleeve back on the machine and your machine should be ready to froth again.
Note: To prevent clogging, purge the steam wand after frothing milk and wipe off any excess milk with a wet cloth. We still recommend a thorough cleaning periodically as the milk can still build up inside the wand. The wand can easily be taken totally apart for cleaning.

Solution 2

The second most common solution to this problem is that the pinhole near the tip of the Frothing Wand has become clogged. If this happens, the machine will heat the milk but no froth will form. To fix this, follow these instructions:

1) Remove the black plastic outer sleeve of the Frothing Wand (some models have a metal outer sleeve). If done correctly, the “sleeve” has been removed, but the inner wand with red or black washer, is still connected to the machine.
2) Hold the Frothing Wand in your hand so you can see the top portion clearly (the top being the part that usually attaches to the machine, and the bottom is the part that goes into the milk).
3) There is a single pinhole on the side of the Frothing Wand about ¼-inch down from the top. It is very small—literally a pinhole. You will need to clear this out. A sewing needle or pushpin is small enough to fit through. Make sure this is thoroughly cleaned out.
4) Now put the sleeve back on the machine and your machine should be ready to froth again.
Note: To prevent clogging, purge the steam wand after frothing milk and wipe off any excess milk with a wet cloth. We still recommend a thorough cleaning periodically as the milk can still build up inside the wand. The wand can easily be taken totally apart for cleaning.

Solution 3

If the first two solutions do not work, you may need to replace your frothing wand. Visit our Parts page below to purchase a replacement.

Parts Page

Comments (2)

There are several possible causes of this problem. Please follow the instructions below to solve it.

Solution 1

The most common solution to this problem is to ensure that your wand is installed properly. To do this, follow these instructions:

Click here for a diagram
Note: Your wand may look slightly different than the wand pictured in the diagram, but the same instructions apply.

1. Slide the Nut (#1 in the diagram) up onto the steam wand with the threads facing down.
2. Slide the Hard Plastic Gasket (#2) up with the flat edge facing down. There is a rounded edge on the gasket as well as a flat edge. The flat edge should face down.
3. Slide the Soft Rubber Gasket (#3) up onto the steam wand. If your wand has a ribbed area or lines in the steam wand, position the gasket on this area for a good grip.
4. Slide the Inner Wand (#4) onto the steam wand until it stops. Make sure the inner wand is as far up as it can go (even if you have to push the rubber gasket (#3) up slightly farther).
5. Tighten the Nut (#1) down firmly onto the Inner Wand (4). You will have to hold the Inner Wand (4) as you are tightening the nut (#1). Note: Do not tighten the nut too much, as it may crack.
6. Slide the Frothing Sleeve (#5) onto the Inner Wand (#4) all the way up until it stops.

Solution 2

Another possible cause of this problem is that you may be missing the soft rubber gasket (#3). Please call us to order a new wand or visit our parts page below.

Solution 3

Another possible cause of this problem is that the rubber gasket (#3) may be worn out and needs to be replaced. Please call us to order a new wand or visit our parts page below.

Parts Page

There are several possible causes of this problem. Please follow the advice below to solve it.

1) If you have a new machine, it is totally empty. You will need to run the grinder 2-3 times before it fills up with enough ground coffee to begin brewing.

2) Oily, flavored, or frozen/refrigerated beans can get stuck in a new machine. We recommend using a lighter roast or a roast with a low sheen on the bean surface. We do not recommend using flavored beans. Frozen/refrigerated beans should be thoroughly thawed before being added to the bean hopper.

3) Oily, flavored, or frozen/refrigerated beans can cause your grinder to clog. There is a small chute that leads from the grinder located in the back of the machine to the brew unit in the front. This is the area that becomes clogged.

To clean the grinder, follow these instructions:

1. Remove the water reservoir and turn off the machine.
2. Take the cover off of the bean hopper and vacuum out beans.
3. Remove the three Phillips head screws that are in the bean hopper.
4. Lift up the bean hopper and set aside.
5. Open the front door; remove the drip tray and the brew group.
6. Remove the rubber gasket from the top of the grinder area.
7. The grinder is made up of two pieces. The inner piece has four tabs that the rubber gasket sits on. The outer piece has teeth in a ring on the exterior covering ½ the circumference.
8. Rotate the outer ring 180 degrees counterclockwise. There is a small red spot on the outer collar. It should be at the 12 o’clock position now if you are facing the machine. You should be able to lift out the inner ring.
9. Vacuum out all the beans and ground coffee. If possible, use a small pipe cleaner to get grounds out of the “pathway” going to the front of the machine. It is located on the floor of the grinder at about the seven 0’clock position.
10. Above the central unit there is a gray triangular tab, which is attached to a door on a hinge. Pull down on the triangle – coffee grounds may come out. Look above the trap door and you will see the other end of the chute. Vacuum out the chute and clean with a pipe cleaner.
11. At the 6 o’clock position, there is a straight, small black arm with teeth. It can slide to the left and right. Slide this arm all the way to the right if you are facing the front of the machine. This controls the dosage (+/- dial).

Reinstalling:

1. Looking at the grinder from the front of the machine, the red spot on the outer burr should be in the 12 o’clock position. Place the inner burr in with the red marks in the 6 o’clock position.
2. Rotate the outer collar so that the red mark lines up the red/blue marks on the inner burr.
3. Reinstall the rubber gasket that goes over the grinder, the slots in the gasket line up with the four tabs of the outer burr.
4. Now, with the bean hopper in your hand, turn the number knob to 0 and the +/- knob all the way to +. You may have to rotate the knob, a small amount, to get the bean hopper to set down on its supports.
5. Install the three screws. Make sure they are snug, but not too tight.
6. Adjust the grinder to a setting of 8 on the number knob and the middle line on the +/- dial.
7. Put the reservoir back and fill it with water.
8. Fill the bean hopper with a cup of beans and plug in and turn on the machine.
9. Reinstall the brew group and the drip tray.
Once the machine warms up, press the small coffee button.
When the grinder comes on set the grind setting to six. You may have to press the small coffee button twice or three times before the machine will make a cup of espresso.

You can increase the temperature of your drink anywhere from 10-20 degrees by ensuring that all of your brewing components are preheated properly. These steps should be performed before you brew your first cup, or anytime that the machine has cooled between making coffee:

1. Purge water through your steam wand and into your cup. This accomplishes two things- It helps to preheat the internal components and it heats the cup as well.
2. If your machine has a bypass doser, run a shot from the bypass doser with no coffee grounds added. Again, this helps with preheating the internal components. Some machines even have a hot rinse cycle that runs on startup to preheat the brewing components automatically.

The brew group, sometimes referred to as the brew group or central unit, is the grey or black mechanism inside the machine where your coffee is brewed. It is easily removable, and it should be cleaned at least once a week. To clean it, follow these instructions:

1. Make sure the machine is not in the initial start up process or halfway through a brewing cycle. Wait until it is ready to brew.
2. Open the service door on the machine and remove the drip tray and dump box.
3. Remove the brew group by pressing/pushing (depending on your machine) on the part that says “Press" or "Push”. Pull firmly and straight out.
Note: Be cautious not to break the brew group. Also be aware of the door of your machine as it can break as well.
4. Rinse the brew group thoroughly under clean, flowing water.
Note: Do not use soap – this will remove important lubrication in the brew group. Also, do not put the brew group in the dishwasher – it can cause it to warp and not fit properly back into the machine (a new brew group can cost $100 or more).
5. At the top of the brew group, you will see a black stem-like object that is about the width of a pencil. You will notice a large orange o-ring beneath the stem, look below the o-ring and you will see the upper filter screen at the end of the cylinder-shaped piece. It is flat and about the diameter of a silver dollar. With the top of the stem facing you, turn the stem counterclockwise. Hold the screen steady as you continue rotating the stem counterclockwise until the screen is free.
6.Give the screen a thorough cleaning. Hold it up to the light and make sure you can see most of the holes. DO NOT use a pin to clear out any clogs. This can increase the size of the holes, causing future clogs.
7. Reattach the upper filter screen by turning the stem clockwise. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN- FINGER TIGHT ONLY.Make sure that the filter screen is snug but not too tight. This can strip the small nut in the stem.
8. Pat the brew group dry with a clean cloth. Again, be careful not to wipe off the lubrication on the internal parts.
9. Slide the brew group back into its place in the machine. Press it in firmly until it clicks into place.
10. Replace the drip tray and dump box.

Perform this about once a week and your machine should stay clog free!

Comments (2)

The most common reason that this happens is because the machine has been turned off or lost power during a brewing cycle. It will also happen if any piece (dreg drawer, drip tray etc) of the machine has been removed or the service door has been opened during a brewing cycle. To fix the problem, follow these steps:

Note: You will need a #1 Philips screwdriver

1.) Open the door on the machine and remove the drip tray and dredge drawer.
2.) Locate the nickel-sized hole in the brew group. It will have an "N" next to it. Directly to the left, you will see another hole about 1/3 of the size of the first. Directly behind this hole, or about an inch up depending on the position the machine was stopped in you will see a single Phillips-head screw. You may have to look around the side of the brew group to locate the screw, as it is not always visible from the smaller hole.
3.) Remove this screw; it holds a small coupling water inlet to the brew group (it is similar looking to a tobacco pipe).
4.) Remove the brew group by pressing/pushing (depending on your machine) on the part that says “Press" or "Push”. Pull firmly and straight out.
Note: Be cautious not to break the brew group. Also be aware of the door of your machine as it can break as well.
5.) With the brew group out, remove the small coupling water inlet (tobacco pipe) that is probably still stuck to your machine.
6). Reinstall it in the brew group as it was before. Make sure the screw is installed snugly but not too tight.
5.) Turn the brew group around so you are facing the back. Now imagine what a check mark looks like, the top we will call position A (longer part of the checkmark), and where the checkmark ends (the smaller portion) is point B. You will notice what looks like a large checkmark where the coupling water inlet is located. The water coupling can slide up and down in this checkmark opening. The water coupling should be in the B position.

REINSTALLING THE BREW GROUP
To do this, the gears will have to be reset to the start position. In order to do so, you will have to bypass the three micro-switches (Brew Group, Dump Box and the Door switch).

Bypassing the micro switches:

1.) Looking at the backside of the brew group, (not the side that says "Push" or "Press"), you will notice something fin-like or nose-shaped. This piece fits into a keyhole or coin slot-like slot in the machine and that is where the brew group micro-switch is located. Take something like an index card, envelope, or folded up piece of paper, and insert it into that keyhole so that it will trick the machine into thinking that the brew group is installed. Start the piece of paper at the top of the slot and slide it to the bottom of the slot. The paper should be thick enough so you can let go and it will remain in place. Leave this object in there until the following steps are complete.
2.) WITHOUT putting the brew group back into the machine, reinstall the drip-tray and dredge drawer and close the door.
3.) Now you can then turn the machine ON. At this time the gears will begin moving until they return to the correct start position.
4.) At this point remove the object from the keyhole position and you can now reinstall the brew group. If the brew group does not go back in correctly, try a few more times. The machine will return to its home position.
Note: The two large spokes of the brew drive shaft should be in the up position.

At times, the gears in the brew drive assembly will not complete the cycle to the proper start position for different reasons. Some of the reasons are:

• Brew group jammed or blocked.
  Note: A jammed or blocked brew group can happen when the brew group starts the cycle but doesn’t finish it.
  
• Either one of the micro-switches in the brew drive has gone bad.
  
• Brew drive motor failure.
  
• Broken teeth on either of the brew drive gears.
  
• Dirty brew group, covered by coffee grinds.
  
• Brew group or gears not lubricated.
  
• Connections to the board from brew drive assy., or motor have gone bad.

Comments (1)

There are several possible causes of this problem. Please follow the instructions below to solve it.

Solution 1

The most common solution to this problem is to clean the drain area behind the brew group. to do so, follow these instructions:

1. Open the machine’s service door
2. Remove the brew group by pressing/pushing (depending on your machine) on the part that says “Press" or "Push.” Pull firmly and straight out.
3. Locate the drain area behind the brew group.

Click here for a PDF diagram

4. Clean out the coffee grounds in the drain areas noted in the diagram.
5. Replace the brew group.
6. Close the service door.

Solution 2

Another common solution to this problem is to clean two key parts of your brew group, called the “check ball” and the “upper filter screen.” To clean them, follow these instructions:

1. Remove the brew unit, drip tray and dreg drawer and set these items aside.
2. Look at the back wall of the machine with the door open. You will see an off white spout with two “o-rings” on it. The o-rings may be black or orange It is located behind the area where the brew unit usually sits. The spout is slightly recessed into unit.
3. The area below this spout is a drain area. Stick your finger directly to the right of the spout and point down. Your finger will disappear behind a small plastic shield. This area may be filled with ground coffee mixed with water.
4. Thoroughly clean this area of any coffee.
5. Insert the drip tray only into the machine. You will notice that there is a part of the drip tray that rests directly underneath this drain area. Make sure water can flow freely from the drain area into your drip tray.

Solution 3

If the first two solutions do not solve the problem, you may need to inspect the upper filter screen. Follow these steps:

1) Remove the brew group.
2) At the top of the brew unit, you will see a black stem-like object that is about the width of a pencil. Use your fingers to begin to loosen the screen that is attached at the base of the stem. With the stem facing you, turn the stem counterclockwise. You will notice a large red o-ring beneath the stem, look under the o-ring and you will see the upper filter screen. Hold the screen steady as you continue rotating the stem counter clockwise.
3) Remove the upper filter screen and look at the stem of the screen. If there is a brass-knurled nut on the stem, unthread it and set the parts aside. You will need to call us to purchase a new brew unit stem (this is a common and affordable replacement part). The small nut should be in the stem portion.
4) Grab the stem firmly and pull. It will come out of the brew group. There are 2 tabs that resemble rabbit ears. Look between these for a brass nut. If it is not there, it may be at the end of the shower screen stem. If you are missing the nut all together, you may have accidentally discarded it when dumping your grounds container. Please call us to order a new (also a common and affordable replacement part).
5) If the knurled nut is still in the stem, check the threads on the upper filter screw and make sure they are not stripped. If they are, please call us for a new screw.
8) Insert the stem back into the brew group.
9) Reinstall the upper filter screen and tighten it back into place using your finger (DO NOT USE THE BREW UNIT KEY). When it does not tighten anymore, it is in place. Using your finger prevents over tightening and prevents the nut from coming out of the stem.
10) Install the brew group into the machine and begin making coffee.

SOLUTION 4

If all other solutions have not worked, you may have a leak near the reservoir. If your machine is leaking down the back of the machine when you install your reservoir, you may need to replace a small grommet. Follow these steps:

1) Remove the water reservoir and set it aside. Unplug the machine and turn it off.
2) Locate a small grey grommet protector directly beneath the water reservoir. It is a hard grey “O” shaped piece with a hole in the middle. This piece is held onto the machine with three tabs.
3) Place a flat blade screwdriver between the machine and the grommet protector. Gently lift up and the piece will pop off.
4) Underneath will be a thick, soft rubber piece. This is the grommet. It creates a seal between the machine and the water reservoir. Inspect this piece, and if it is dirty, clean it and replace it. If it is cracked or worn, please call us to order a new grommet.
5) Reinstall the grommet and place the grommet protector over it. Push down with your hand to snap it back into place.
6) Replace the reservoir and fill it with water. Make sure there is no further leak.

Solution 5

If you have tried all of the above solutions and the problem is still not resolved, please call us to set up the machine for a repair. We are an authorized repair center and can accept your machine for a repair.

Here are some step by step instructions on how to descale your machine:

Decalcifying Super Automatic Machines (without an automatic decalcification system)

To determine which decalcifying cleaner is recommended for your machine consult your user’s manual or the maintenance instructions on our website. Decalcify your machine about every 3 months, depending on the water hardness, according to the directions below. The process will take 15 to 20 minutes.

Tools Required:
Decalcifying cleaner
A container large enough to hold the same quantity of liquid as your water reservoir

1) Remove the machine’s water reservoir.
2) Empty all liquid from the reservoir.
3) Fill the reservoir with warm water.
4) Add one packet of the recommended cleaner to the full reservoir and stir until the cleaner is dissolved.
5) Return the water reservoir to the machine.
6) Turn the machine on.
7) Set the large container underneath the steam wand.
8) Set up your machine so that hot water -NOT steam-will be emitted from the steam wand when the steam valve is opened.
9) Open the steam valve according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
10) After all of the decalcifying solution has drained into the large container (within a few minutes this will occur), remove it and discard the liquid that has been collected.
11) Rinse the water reservoir thoroughly and then fill it with the type of water you usually use for brewing.
12) Return the water reservoir to its normal position.
13) Using only water repeat steps 7 through 9 until the water reservoir is empty again.

The process is now complete and your machine is ready once again to brew a perfect cup of coffee. If you have any questions regarding this procedure, please contact us directly at 888-411-5282.

Refurbished machines, excluding Capresso models, come with a six-month warranty covering limited parts and labor through Whole Latte Love. Before a machine can be offered through the Outlet, our technical staff carefully inspects it to ensure it is in perfect working order, so you can always be sure you’re getting the best in quality and performance. Each refurbished machine comes complete with all components that are necessary for proper use.

Capresso refurbished machines come with a full one-year warranty and all repairs will go directly through the manufacturer. Before these machines were made available for resale, Capresso’s own technicians carefully inspected each machine to ensure it is in perfect working order. Each refurbished Capresso machine comes complete with all the accessories that normally come with a new product.

For more information on our refurbished machines, please read the article linked below and visit the Whole Latte Love Outlet.

Whole Latte Love Refurbs

Whole Latte Love Outlet

Comments (1)

In order to get the maximum strength/flavor from your machine, follow these steps:

1. Depending on your machine, increase the fineness of your grind by changing your grind setting to a low number or small dot.
2. Reduce the water volume to 1 oz.
3. Adjust the amount of ground coffee used for each shot (up to 9 grams at the maximum setting).
4. If you want to brew more than 1 oz, press the brew button twice and the machine will go through 2 brew cycles automatically.

How to Get the Most from your Super Automatic

Unfortunately, this machine will only accept whole beans.  To use ground coffee in a super automatic espresso machine, you will need to look at machines that have a bypass doser.  Saeco does make some machines with this feature, as well as Gaggia and Capresso, and the links below will lead you to some of these machines.  If you would like to compare them further, or to find out what other machines have this option, you can do so easily by following the link to our Compare-O-Matic.  You can also learn more about bypass dosers and the other features that super automatic machines can have by reading our buying guide "What Is a Super Automatic?", which is linked to below.

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