Profitec Pro 700: Flow Issues

Troubleshooting low/no-flow on the Profitec Pro 700: confirming the issue, quick power/reservoir checks, group “mushroom” inspection and cleaning, measuring brew and steam-boiler fill flow, basic electronic diagnostics (pump, switch, capacitor, control board), solenoid tests, and common restrictions for both plumbed-in and reservoir use—including inlet screens, inline filters, reservoir check valve, and the valve tree (with descaling/cleaning steps).Intermediate: Comfortable using hand tools and a multimeter, removing panels, and working safely around water and electricity. If electrical testing isn’t your thing, do all non-electrical checks first and contact support for board/pump diagnostics.Metric wrenches/sockets (14 mm and 17 mm), adjustable wrenchPhillips screwdriver; small flat screwdriver/pickMeasuring cup (marked in ounces) and a timerMultimeter (for optional electrical checks)Pliers (needle-nose help for small screens)Paper clip (plain metal) or small jet file; small brushTeflon tape (for reassembly of plumbing fittings)Descaling solution &amp; clean container for soaking partsClean rags/towels; cup or bucket for purging linesFridge magnet (to test the reservoir sensor—diagnostics only)Blind portafilter basket (for leak check after reassembly)Unplug the machine before opening the case or disconnecting fittings. Re-apply power only when a test explicitly requires it—then unplug again before continuing.Turn off the house water if plumbed. Expect water in lines; keep towels handy.Parts near the group/boilers can be very hot. Let the machine cool before service.Electrical tests expose live 120 V. Only perform with proper skill and PPE.Don’t run the pump dry for long; short diagnostic pulses are fine.Check lights/PID. If the green, orange, and PID are all off, confirm the machine is plugged in and switched on.Plumbed-in exception: Lifting the lever may show water from line pressure even with the machine off (pump silent). That’s normal.Green on, but orange/PID off? The reservoir is “not present” to the sensor. Fill and seat the tank.Quick sensor test (diagnostic): Hold a magnet at the reservoir sensor (rear of tank bay). If the orange/PID comes on, the sensor is reading “full.”Alternatively, switch to “network/plumbed” to bypass the tank sensor (diagnostic only).If these restore operations are required, you likely have a reservoir or sensor issue.⚠️ Water hazard (plumbed-in): Turn house water off before removing the mushroom or fittings.Vent pressure (lift and lower lever), let the group cool. Remove the mushroom cap/nut.Observe for water in the cavity. No water here can indicate an upstream restriction.Reservoir-mode test: With the top feed tube visible, briefly lift the lever.You should see water entering the mushroom area quickly. If you do, but little/none comes out of the group, the restriction is inside the mushroom/jet/orifices.Clean the jet/orifices:Inspect the central jet and the four small orifices around the cap. Hold to light.Clear deposits with a plain metal paper clip/small pick (no plastic-coated clips), then descale the parts and rinse.Flow-control models: Open/close the needle fully several times to self-clean the seat/jet; then inspect and descale if needed.Older chrome-plated mushrooms: If descaling flakes chrome, flush the group thoroughly and consider replacing the mushroom (no metal flakes in beverages).Reinstall &amp; leak-check: Snug the mushroom. While the machine is cold, insert a blind basket, lift the lever to build pressure, and check for leaks. Tighten slightly if needed.Brew flow test (no portafilter): Time how long to collect 6 oz of water. Target &lt; 20 s (≈17 s shown in video).25 s+ to reach 6 oz = restriction likely. ~60 s = severe blockage.Dispense ~4 oz of hot water; the pump should refill the steam boiler quickly (less restriction vs. group path).If both brew flow and steam-boiler refill are slow, likely a restriction in the valve tree area.Pump response:Lever up → pump runs? If the brew lever doesn’t start the pump, test whether the steam-boiler refill triggers the pump (dispense hot water).Pump runs for steam but not brew: Suspect the brew lever microswitch or its position. Press the switch tab manually; if uncertain, do a continuity test on the switch terminals while pressing.Pump runs neither way: Could be loose board connector, bad capacitor, or failed pump motor.Inspect for rust/scale where the pump head meets the motor—a leak can kill the motor.Remove the pump head (1 screw) and watch the motor shaft: spinning shaft + no flow = bad pump head.Voltage check (advanced): Measure AC at the pump connector or at the board output when a fill is commanded. No voltage = board/control issue; voltage present + no pump action = pump/capacitor.Solenoid (steam-boiler fill) check:When a fill is called, feel for a click on the solenoid coil.If no click, measure for ~120 V at the solenoid during fill.If powered but no flow, remove the coil, unscrew the valve body cap (14 mm), and clean the piston/orifice; mind the small spring at the tip.Selector fully to “Network” (not halfway).Check incoming pressure (filter gauge recommended). The brew-pressure gauge shows line pressure only downstream of internal plumbing; a filter gauge helps isolate external vs. internal restrictions.Plumb-in inlet screen: Remove the braided hose fitting at the machine inlet (14 mm). Behind it is a tiny screen—extract, descale/clean, or replace.For testing, you may reassemble briefly without the screen (don’t leave it out).Purge the supply line into a clear container before reconnecting to ensure clean water.Tank outlet check: Push up on the tank’s check valve ball—water should flow freely. If not, disassemble the cap, inspect the ball/spring, and replace the spring if collapsed.Socket pin check: The plastic pin in the machine’s tank socket must move and depress the tank’s ball. Replace if damaged.Inline particle filter (post-tank): Remove and inspect/flush. If scaled, soak briefly in descaler and rinse thoroughly before reinstall.Pump pressure adjuster clue: If turning the adjuster doesn’t change pressure, the pump head/adjuster passage is often scaled—service or replace the pump head.Isolate flow segments: Disconnect at logical points (e.g., outlet of pump, pre/post solenoid, boiler inlets) and briefly run to see where flow stops.Tip: If the copper tube twists while loosening a nut, stop; hold the opposing fitting with a second wrench to avoid damage.Remove the valve tree: With lines off (and machine unplugged), extract the assembly. Soak in descaler 30–60 min, rinse, and reinstall.Solenoid service on bench: Unscrew the solenoid valve cap carefully (mind the small spring). Clean the piston and center orifice, then reassemble.Re-teflon any tapered plumb fittings; use correct torque (snug + small turn).Confirm the selector (Reservoir vs. Network) is correct for your setup.Leak test with a blind basket while cold, then again when hot and at pressure.Re-do 6 oz/20 s brew-flow test; verify steam-boiler refill behavior.Pull a blank shot to flush residual descaler, then test with coffee.

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